For the first time in a while the morning had started before I had even woken up. Charles had taken the car for an oil change and let me and Joesph sleep longer. I got up and packed up. Charles’ mom had prepared an absolutely delicious warm breakfast, so we would be fueled up before hitting the road. I also got to see their garden and meet Charles’ sister, who is also a rising sophmore at MIT! Once the car was back, we packed it up. Then we said goodbye to Charles and left him with his family, and drove away. And then there were two.
Seattle, WA to Curlew Lake State Park, WA
292mi
We left Seattle.
After some driving, we filled up on gas. I noticed our gas tank door wouldn’t close, so we taped it shut for now (spoiler: it would fix itself a couple of days later). And then we stopped for a break at a cafe, where Joseph got a Chai latte and something to eat. On the way there there were a bunch of cyclists doing some event, which we were happy to see.
some mountain topa bunch of cyclistssome morethe gas tank doorJoseph and his latteblogging in the car
After that I spent some time blogging in the car. And by that I mean Joseph was thinking of his blogs, saying them out loud, and me typing them down in my laptop.
As we went further the views got prettier. The forest appeared, then the mountains and lakes. Then we arrived at the North Cascades National Park and stopped by the Visitor Center to get a map.
Equipped with the knowledge of where and what we checked out a very nice view right by the center and then started the drive through the park. We first stopped at Gorge Creek Falls and Gorge Dam. The water flowing from the dam was a interesting kind of greenish blue with white underneath. A hanging bridge took us over the river to where the falls where.
the water in the rivergorge damJoseph on the bridgeme on the bridgethe fallsthe falls, too
Then we continued, enjoying the views from the car, to Diablo Lake, where I was commited to take a plunge. Once we made it to the lake, we discovered that, despite the warm day, the water was quite cold. The first time I went in I did not swim. Then Joseph, who is more affected by cold bodies of water than I am, also went in the water and then quickly got himself out of there. I ate some crisp peaches that Charles’ family had given us and then I felt ready to give the lake another go. I’m happy to report that the second time was much easier and I could swim around. The views were great, although filled with paddle boarders.
getting the picslook at that mountain!
At this point we were once again behind our imagined schedule that would let us arrive to our campsite in daylight. So we stopped at some overlooks, but kept on moving through the park. In search for bathrooms, we stumbled across a closed campsite. There we found bathrooms, but more importantly we found some mountain ash trees, or rowans. I was really excited to find plants I knew so far from home, the bright orange berries were both bitter and nostalgic.
the rowan berriesberries in the sunreally nice overlookinteresting view
After that we made it out of the park. We drove for a while, until we stumbled upon Sheri’s Sweet Shop in Whintrop. It seemed ljke the kind of place that once people stop by they love it so much they come back again and again. Joseph got a smoothie, which he says might be the best one on the trip yet, and then we got some chocolates.
the chocolateswall of memories in the shopbuilding across the streetthe line for ice cream
The sun was getting lower and lower, so we got back on the road. The forest disappeared for a stretch, but we found some farm eggs in a self serve cooler on the side of the road. There was one last 12 egg carton left, so we scrambled together whatever cash we had and got them.
caught the sun in the mirrorbuying eggs
The final stop of our day was by Anderson’s Grocery in Republic. There was a street concert going on, but we were short on time, so we got some groceries and headed to the campsite.
sun settinggrocery store
Our campsite at Curlew Lake State Park was right by the lake. I got dark as we were setting up our tent and stove. We were going to make pasta, but the our propane-powered camping stove was not working. So we pivoted to make sandwiches for dinner. I went for a swim in the dark lake. The water was warm, so I just lay there for a while and looked up to the stars. I befriended some Ukrainian and Russian girls in the bathrooms, who were in a church camp.Then we showered and got ready for bed. We had another full day ahead of us. Before going to sleep I sat outside for a bit longer trying to take pictures of the night sky.
the big dipper over the lakecassiopeia and something else
I awoke next to Tian for the last time in what will probably be a very long time. Ishaq was sleeping on the floor. I had set an alarm for 6:25am to wake everyone up at 6:30am and hurry them out of the house by 7am. It was 6:15am. As of early yesterday, there were only seven of us here.
I thought for a moment about not waking anyone up at all, so they would miss their flights and today wouldn’t be possibly the last day I see some of them. But I shooed away these delusions and got to waking people up. The next hour was spent packing, repacking and getting ready. We repacked the car to fit 3 passengers and Ishaq’s bike and at 7:30am Tian, Sarah and Ishaq were sent off to a friend’s apartment or the airport. And then there were four.
they’re leaving 😦the fourbye bye
Charles did the driving. Joseph, Ruth and me stayed to pack up all the other Spokes belongings and tidy up a bit. Once the car returned we did some reorganising and ultimately all four of us were able to squeeze in. Ruth was dropped off at her sister’s. (The only reason I survived this goodbye is because she is returning to Boston, so I instead said seeya, seeya.) And then there were three.
the carruth!!!
Now, Joseph should have mentioned this in a previous blog that might or might not be published yet, but we are performing a private delivery of Spokes belongings to Cambridge. And Charles is going to Seattle to his family, so the three of us are taking two days to drive up there.
Which brings us to the new format of these blogs and today’s agenda:
San Francisco, CA to Humbug Mountain State Park, OR
426 mi
Charles took the morning driving shift. We left San Francisco and I wondered if I would ever find myself there again. It’s plausable that that would happen. But also completely realistic that it wouldn’t.
leaving sfskylineroad
The beginning of the drive we talked, running on adrenaline from the logistics and goodbyes. But the tired caught up to us. Joseph dosed off. And Charles also caught his eyes becoming heavy. So they swapped and Joseph continued the driving, powered by a gas station milkshake. We made a very important stop by the Bill Cypher statue. For those who are not Gravity Falls fans, after the show ended there was a treasure hunt for this statue depicting the main villain who (spoilers!!!) by the end was petrified into this statue.
gas station milkshake machinethe roadCharles napping
Then we checked out Humbolt Redwoods State Park and the huge trees. It was pretty crazy. The trees really were quite big. The scenery from the road was also really cool. It looked like how in my head big, old forests are drawn in children’s books. Sometimes it would feel like we might hit one of the huge trees on the side of the road, they were almost like walls.
view from belowfallen treefeels like a fairytaleus and a huge treeJoseph and the Cypher statueus pointing at the tree
Then we found an awesome beach on the side of the road and touched the Pacific ocean. The vastness seeped into my already overflowing mind, shoved everything else out of the way and had a calming effect. There was only us and the big blue nothingness.
the viewsthe other side
Continuing North we went through the Redwoods National Park. We didn’t have quite as much time to spend here, but we stopped to see some more big trees. It was a blast!
tree tunnelberriesthe biggest tree of them all – Charles’ quadproof there is many big treestrio photosun setting
By this point the sun was setting and we had succesfully failed to get to our campsite during daylight. We caught some of the last sun rays at another beautiful beach. And then drove the last stretch in the darkness, got some 12 inch subs for dinner, somehow found our campsite in the dark, tried to quietly set up camp, saw a bunch of stars and went to sleep.
The Spokies awoke one by one in what started off as a slow, bum morning in a church in Placerville, unaware of what the day ahead had in store. Previously someone had made plans to do a scavanger hunt one of these days and Ruth had now convinced Greta that today was the day. So, after calls home, breakfast and packing, we lingered a bit longer in the lot by the church, while Greta flushed out the hunt. Once Greta was done with her scoreboard, we split off in teams for the competitive spirit and after some brief scheming set off. 54.2 miles with very little climbing created the perfect atmosphere for a unserious day full of side quests.
where we stayedlot by the churchPlacerville
I was teamed up with Ruth and Joseph. Our plan was to hit a CVS in Skinners to get hair dye and enact a break-up, then go to rest stop 1 to jump in a lake, maybe find a secluded area for skinny dipping and choreograph a dance. Then find a car wash, hopefully neighbouring a gas station to wash our bikes and get that winning scratch-off. Finally, get some ice cream with sun glasses upside down, introducing yourself as Latvian and grabbing the ice cream by the scoop. For on the way tasks we could do the secret handshake, stranger selfies and other bits. At the end of the day we would run the last 0.5 miles. Writing this all down, it sounds like way too much, but at the time it seemed completely doable. Our cycling days were always long, so what’s a little side quest here and there?
Well, we ended up arriving to our first rest stop 19.4 miles out a whooping 5 hours later. But, Ruth and Ishaq met a bunch of strangers and took selfies with them. My team (the best team) staged a couple’s fight in a CVS, got some merch from a dollar store and acquired an additional team member – Tian. The other team (the second best team) had gotten some ice cream and probably went on some other side quests I have not been briefed about. Anyway, at the first rest stop – a cafe, where the lovely barista filled all of our bottles with ice water – Greta instated a time limit for the next stretch. That’s really when the day picked up pace. It was time to pedal and be efficient about completing our tasks.
We schemed some more, performed a choerographed dance, Joseph chugged half a gallon of oat milk, Charles downed three cans of Sprite and we struggled to land a bottle flip while cycling. Then we set off to find a place to swim. But on our way we first ran into a car wash and a gas station, so that was nice. Eventually we made it to a park, where we found a nice swimming spot, jumped in the lake and went skinning dipping. Then we pedaled off in a hurry to make it to our second (and final) rest stop in time.
Ruth got her bike signedJoseph and oatmilkthe winning ticket!trying to dry offRuth pedalling awayTian attempting a bottle flippart of the handshakeme jumping in waterRuth jumping in waterTian getting her bike powerwashed
Despite the high pedalling output to keep on schedule, the ride was very enjoyable. The warm weather had stopped bothering me after the swim and snacks from the car kept me fueled. I honestly am not quite sure anymore what tasks we tried to do afterwards, or what the other team was up to. It was a day overflowing with events, a whirlwind that made us forget time, blew us up in the air to land someplace else with a different agenda. Everyone was in high spirits when we finally arrived in Sacramento to our hosts Ray and Judy.
Ruth trying to eat a smushed ice creamcont.in the evening sunfound the place just in timeour hosts’ beautiful homeRuth and Charles enjoying the gardenteapots!
After showers we rewinded with pasta dinner, completed with tomato sauce and vegetables grown in the yard. The hunt dominated the dinner table discussion, everyone was excited to share their adventures. Judy and Ray’s home was stunning, which I will be able to confirm the next morning, when it was light outside again. An absolutely soul-filling experience – a day to fly through and an evening to feel grounded again.
Afterwards, I basically crashed into the bed, but some Spokies stayed up and discussed next day’s plan’s. But more about that in the next blog which Charles will be writing up soon!
0 miles today, so teaching! Somehow, even though this is the second to last learning festival we are doing, the thought of kids and lessons made me nervous.
We woke up and left the high school for the library, only 15 or so minutes later than planned. The library, across the street from the middle school, had a nice lawn and a pond next to it. We made it there just when it opened and set up half in a conference room and half outside. This was definitely one of the smaller learning festivals with around 12? kids and one adult. I always like working with only a few kids in a group, since I can listen to them more and ask more questions, as opposed to making them do things. The adult was a new addition. A retired? special ED teacher, he wanted to join for the classes. This made me even more nervous – a teacher would be there observing me trying my best to teach. But it ended up being completely fine. It was actually really nice to talk to him about the lesson and teaching in general, especially special ED, afterwards. Unexpected, pleasant surprise. The kids were also great! I met multiple people, whose favourite subject in school is math and found out about some teenagers have been dirtbiking since 3 years old. Kind of crazy! (We had passed some tracks for dirtbikes when riding into Ely yesterday, so it checks out. Dirtbiking and mountain biking appear to be common hobbies here.) We ate lunch outside, it was a calm and sunny day.
Afterwards, we let Charles and Ruth work on their 3d prints, which always take longer than expected and this time faced some extra difficulty due to a corrupted SD card (an ordeal that extended into the next day, respect to Charles for not giving up on any of the prints!) And we left Greta with them to blog. The rest were shuttled back to the high school. Joseph and Sarah went to do laundry (and checked out a cafe too I think?). I was going to join a meeting, but due to my poor mental math abilities, missed it by an hour. I did some other work, until the people left at the library got back. Me and Charles (who was awarding himself for finishing the learning festival by procrastinating on his blogs) joined Ishaq for the grocery store to pick up the ingredients for a Thai green curry and some other red type of curry. The grocery store was actually huge and very well stocked, we got all the ingredients, found a basil with all the roots and contemplated making it a Spokes pet and got a huge melon. Then we got to cooking. Ruth also made a crazy amount of sandwiches for everyone for the ride tomorrow.
The scenery was amazing: us under the bobcats in the evening sun.
Halfway through cooking Ruth, whose stressed about the unwritten blogs for both Charles and Greta, kicked Charles out of the cooking team and made him write his blog. (So he sat there and wrote his blog.) She also had an interaction with Greta about the blogs, but ended up not making her blog, since she had already dropped a blog that day. Anyways, the meal ended up absolutely delicious and we enjoyed it on the spot, sitting on the ground.
While not blogging, Greta had gone on a run and returned absolutely ecstatic over the sunset and huge moon she had seen. So, after dinner, we too went to see the moon from the bleachers. I walked around the football field, a place I have never found myself on. It’s a pretty big field.
Afterwards, even though there were definitely tasks to do, I got a bout of sleepyness, so I lay down on my mat and soon found it impossible to get back up. Not quite asleep, but not awake either, I vaguely remember there was some more evening shenanigans by the awake Spokies – sliding around the hall in socks, maybe a movie? They were suffering from the late night zoomies.
I later was informed it was the recreation of the trailer for the 1985 movie The Breakfast Club. After seeing it in some part of the editing process, I can say it is a work of art. Keep an eye out for Ruth publishing it someplace. In the meantime, for a teaser, you should look at the original here (link in text: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGuWbVb1210)
But yes, short blog this time, seeya in a week for one last biking trip blog encounter.
Escalante, UT -> Bryce Canyon National Park, UT, 51.5 mi, 4290 ft
This was in many regards a standard Spokes day. We took our time in the morning, rested well at rest stops, but somehow made it to the end before dark. So, without major events to recount, I will show you all the pictures I took this day.
Starting off, headed out from Escalante with Ruth ❤ after saying bye to our lovely hosts and their dogs <3. My sealant fixed a puncture, but made a weird blob. We rode like this for a while.
At some point people caught up to us and we peloton-ed our way up the first climb (out of two) to a viewpoint. The peloton was great for efficiency in the face of headwinds. It was a good time (at least for me, drafting behind :D) This stretch of the day also featured some nice signs. Unfortunately, saw no Elk, and the steep grades for us were downhill.
Here are the views from the viewpoint, featuring weird rocks and some mountains in the distance. And here is Tian eating a sandwich? and Ishaq admiring the view.
I tried to take some pictures of the info plates, in case someone is super curious, but the sun made my efforts difficult.
The next reward (after the viewpoint) for climbing that climb was the downhill! Look at Ishaq speeding away! After zooming down, we met up with Ruth, Tian, Charles and Greta (I think….) and chatted for a bit. I think Charles was trying to bike with Ruth this day, a decision which he had mixed feelings about. The most important bit of the conversation centered around finding a measurement for people’s behinds. When biking we spend a lot of time with people’s butts in our sights, so it is a very relevant question to research. In the picture Ruth and Tian are discussing this question of metrics, comparing different options, like waist to butt ratio or height to butt ratio. (Spoilers, in the end Ruth implemented two of these in the evening, creating a Spokes buttocks ranking, which will not be published due to privacy policy. The chosen method of measurement also ended up receiving some criticism, so the study might need to be redone.) Anyways, back to the story.
We made it to our next rest stop – a great, green, shaded lawn, where we had some food, and I took some paparazzi style pictures through the leaves. Tian’s one is my personal favourite. Notice me struggling to get the leaves out of her face. We layed on the lawn for a bit and Greta read us some horoscopes, which was quite entertaining. She had also made around 8 sandwiches that morning for herself and other Spokies. This is a strategy (I’m guessing introduced by Charles?), so that people don’t have to make a sandwich every single day.
Getting to the next rest stop was pretty chill. Here’s Tian by some nice rocks. The middle one is a great image. Observe Ishaq cruising downhill in the least aero pose ever and Ruth (way more aero) struggling to keep up. Finally, there is Ruth entering civilization, where we would find our next and final rest stop for the day – a cafe. I did not take any pictures there, but people got some lattes, Ruth tried, but did not quite succeed at reading a book in German, and I was stressing over what to make for dinner tomorrow (since I am not driving, I am not usually in charge of picking a dinner, so I was having too many thoughts). The cafe had a cool ice machine OUTSIDE the cafe, which was interesting and very convenient for us.
After the refreshments we were faced with our final climb – getting up to Bryce. We entered the National Park territory, Charles stopped to take a picture of the sign. (I did not stop to take a picture of Charles taking a picture.) There was a winding road leading us up, and while I was too busy climbing to take pictures (there is one singular photo), you have to trust me the views were great!
Up there it was flat again and we made it onto a bike path that lead us to our campsite. Me, Ruth, Greta and Charles also stopped for some ice cream / milkshakes, but we all collectively forgot to take pictures. It was a great time though.
After we made it to our campground and were setting up, we learned that there will be a fire ban, starting at midnight, so after showers and dinner (pasta with salad and Italian sausage, thanks, Sarah!), we sat by the fire and collectively did not do much. Contemplating life, being tired, doing an Instagram post, tidying up, watching a baseball game, listening to music. We were lost in thought, small under the night sky, brought together by the fire.
Vega State Park, CO -> Grand Junction, CO, 60.9mi, 1551ft
I woke up after Ishaq but before everyone else our cosy campsite overlooking the Vega Reservoir. I biked to the bathroom and saw a bunch of geese going for their morning swim in the reservoir. I sat there for a bit. The sun kissed mountains, the geese in the water and me. I couldn’t imagine needing anything else.
Of course I did not have my phone to take a picture for you guys, however Ishaq came in a clutch with these pictures from the morning.
The view ❤ (can’t see the geese 😦 )Tian struggling with the sleeping padMe eating breakfast!
After some food, we packed up our stuff and I headed out with Ruth, my trusted companion. We attempted to speak only German for the first part of the day, an idea we had the day before. It was possible to string together sentences, but it definitely limited our conversation.
- Wie hattest du geschlafen? - Gut, gut... aber leider habe ich keine Träume. - Ah, ja. Träume? - Träume. Dreams. - Ah, klar. Ja, ich habe auch keine Träume.
The conversation was also made difficult because after we got out of the park, it was all downhill for quite a while. That also meant that the first rest stop came super quickly. We filled up on ice at a gas station and spent some time scheming how to make up for a deficit in water bottles (some were lost in battle with gravel yesterday) and electrolytes.
Soon after we headed out, we missed a turn, going fast downhill, but we saw a deer and then corrected our course. I drafted Ruth until the next major turn, but Ruth was without navigation, so then Ruth drafted me. It was still downhill, but there was a fair bit of headwind and the road was fairly busy. The shoulder was good, but lots of debris. Was good, but tiring.
me and Ruth going downhill
Then we turned on i-70, which was even more busy. So I was glad when we turned off it, only to be faced with a gravel hill and after that something that could only be described as not a road and very steep.
Me and Ruth let others know about this scam, but ultimately decided to climb the hill in hopes that there would be an existing road somewhere on the top of the hill. It took us solid 20 minutes to climb the less than 0.2 mile long stretch. There were times I thought that if my foot slipped, I would probably roll back down with all my bike, hit the prickly bushed and I was not sure I would have it in me to try again. But we persevered and made it up. And, guess what, there was a gravel road up there after all.
the “road”
And to make it better, the gravel soon turned to asphalt and we were back in business. The next rest stop was in a sweet little ice cream place in Palisade that was also space themed, called the Milky Way. I got some coconut and some peach ice cream, the latter of which was very good. But the rest stop soon turned a little sour by a discussion about budget and Spokes spending. The team ended up giving Charles and Tian space to discuss and headed further. They were there for over two hours. Poor ice cream shop. But these are conversation to be had in a project like this, so huge thanks to Tian and Charles for taking it on.
Then we arrived at a rest stop by the Colorado River and what I think was Corn lake, where we took a dip first in the lake and then in the river for the full experience. The current in the Colorado really is powerful, as we have found out on multiple occasions. But it was also more refreshing than the lake. After this we were almost exclusively on bike paths and continued so up until Grand Junction.
At the very end, we climbed a hill, short but not easy, only to find out from Steph that its the wrong house and we did not need to climb the hill. Once we descended and got to right house, we met Greg, who showed us the house they had been renovating for 3 years, which featured a frige full of fruit and electrolyte drinks, so we successfully rehydrated. Greg and Steph made us some amazing vegan burritos, let me tell you, I was so happy about the veggies, it’s always difficult to get enough of them on the road. And their friends, both of whose names started with K, but I cannot recall them exactly, brought us brownies!!! After nourishing our bodies, we spent the evening talking with Greg about our trip and hearing his incredible stories from travel and work. At some point I did all my evening tasks and went to sleep. I could hear Greg starting to talk about peaches and how they need cold temperature, but not too cold, and how in Palasade the geography makes it possible with Million Dollar Wind and the gas law and … I dozed off. I later heard the conversation continued about peaches and travel. Laying on my sleeping pad, I was thinking. I aspire to have that amount of wonder and awe for the world around us that Greg seems to have. A perfect peach, a solar eclipse, a beautiful road. All the things beautiful things in life I so often take for granted, that are actually quite remarkable. I think most people actually have the wonder, the interest in the world around, I definitely have had it, but somehow it tends to get burried in school, college, the future, plans, the past, whatever else and generally trying to do the right things in life. But it is also something that this trip is helping me find. Appreciation for the things around me right where and when I am.
It was during this train of thought that I fell asleep.
The next day, somewhere during our 115 miles, many of which we spent looking at a bleak, dry and flat landscape around us, I did a redo of a famous poem as a way to say goodbye (at least for now) to the Rockies, which we officially exited when we left Grand Junction. Here it goes.
Whose lands these are I do not know. The mountains vast, the river cold. I stop mid climb, awe fills my bones; If I stayed right here, could i skip the low?
These peaks and valleys They make me dream, But I have promises to keep, And miles to go before I sleep, And miles to go before I sleep.
Hi, hi! This might be the latest I’ve published a blog yet. Various other things were occupying my mind, things like leaking tires and the learning festival in Denver, and upcoming Hors Catégorie climbs, and going to the sauna… I’m sorry! Regardless, I still remember day 41, because it was one of my favourite cycling days and I have LOTS of pictures, so let’s get into it!
Me and a newspaperRuth with a piece of newspaper after wrongly accusing Charles of making 2 mistakes on the crossword (he made 1).
I started the morning by checking the crossword puzzles some people had done the previous night. I came to the conclusion I would most definitely have not been able to solve them, but crosswording is a skill I do wish to acquire. However, me and Ruth did some easier ones, such as a word scrabbler. But she soon headed out on her side quest of getting her hair done. The rest of us did not start the ride particularly early, but at some point I stopped thinking about it, because it should have been a pretty short, easy day – almost 67 miles and reasonable elevation with no major climbs. The views were incredible, truly, I was still filled with awe whenever I noticed the mountains in the distance, even though we had been seeing them for the past two days.
Charles checking his tire pressure before the ride. If you look very closely, you can see the mountains behind the trees.Us setting offIshaq’s head and the view while stopped at a red light
Getting out of Colorado Springs was kind of annoying, with its many traffic lights and watching for cars, but then we made it on the trails. The trails! New Santa Fe Trail, Greenland Trail, some city bike paths on the way, Plum Creek Trail, Daniels Park trails and then bike paths in Denver. Many trails. Some gravel, some paved, with nice turns, little hills here and there and great views of the fields and the mountains. I have way too many pictures and none of them do the scenery justice.
One of the incredibly long trains that passed us.Charles apparently found some bones.Me happySarah climbing that hill
Somewhere in between those pictures was one of the best rest stops we have had, topped only by Buc-ee’s, maybe, it was a whole lake! While most people were paddleboarding or in boats, we feared not and got in the water. It was great!
Me looking like a seal.The brave people who swam across, some in the kit.Sarah conquering the lake.
But the adventures did not end there. Around mile 33 we found out that a road found on Ride with GPS does not exist in reality. Some of us, including me made the decision to continue on the highway, but others were determined to find the trail and instead went off road. So, while Tian, who had headed out first, was enjoying her boba at the next rest stop in Castle Rock, Greta, Charles and Ishaq were in some field, somewhere.
Tian and bobaOff-roaders
Anyway, after that we we were heading to a viewpoint in Daniels Park, which involved a short, but suspicious stretch of highway and then a category 3 climb. We got hit by a some slightly stormy weather, but it stopped raining before I got to the top. Tian mostly escaped the rain and Sarah hid to wait it out. But at the top we were greeted by some more incredible views.
Cows observing me climbing.Heading to Daniels ParkRainSarah being cheekyThe viewsTrail heading out of Daniels Park viewpoint
With that we were heading into Denver. That was a combination of paved paths and crossing 6 lane streets (which truly scare me, there is almost no gaps!). At the end everyone successfully, although slowly had made it to Denver, where we were welcomed by Maud and Dave, had some great food, before getting ready for the learning festival the next day, examining our slowly leaking tires and going to sleep.
Uncharacteristically, I have no pictures of that. But this day with its adventure and a bit of chaos probably goes into my top 7 Spokes days so far. It was full of awe inspiring views, challenging in unexpected ways and I got to spend it with some great people. Could not ask for anything more.
Newton, KS -> Newton, KS 0 mi, 0 ft (except for Ishaq, but he had his own agenda)
After cycling for hours through the plains, fields and general flatness and emptiness the last couple of days, I was excited to exist in civilization for a day. We had a learning festival planned in the Newton Public Library. Newton has a population of around 18k people, all of which I am jealous of, because they have such a cool local library.
Library!The nicely coloured windows lead to the children’s section. (There is also teen section of course, and plenty of computers.)
We were not there to marvel at the library though, we were there to run some workshops! (Pictures can be found on our instagram btw.) I had some great runs of my Science of Secrets workshop a.k.a. the Ceasar cypher and how to crack it, mostly because we had enough time to do the cracking with a lot of the groups and I got some great questions! One girl also solved the whole worksheet, which was a first.
I suppose we have never actually given a rundown of what our lessons are, so I can briefly walk through mine. It starts with a discussion about how to share secrets (e.g. with your friends, from whispering to texting to hiding messages and sending encoded ones), I might go on a detour to talk about steganography, but ultimately we will settle on cryptography. We learn about the Ceasar cypher, what keys are, what keys make sense for this cypher, how to encode and decode messages. To make life easier and the activity more hands on, the students make their own cyphering tools (instead of using substitution tables). Then, after getting some encryption and decryption practice, they can choose to exchange hidden messages which solidifies the skills or try to hack the cypher (which is more rewarding, but also more challenging). My favourite parts are probably the discussions in the beginning, then trying to figure out the keys and finally the challenges that ultimately lead to (or at the very least allude to) the cracking of all substitution cyphers, which is pretty awesome! Sometimes I get to introduce the factorial and that makes me happy, but I will also settle for understanding the number 25. Point is, it’s pretty great. Halfway through the lesson, we start using a handout, so there is a more structured way to move through the tasks. I sneakily put some further readings at the end of it, in case someone has a boring summer ahead of them.
While I was having fun debugging the struggles of communicating in code, Tian and Ishaq had a different quest – go to Wichata, KS to fix some bike problems. That included getting Joseph some gloves. A simple task… Or so it seems… (tnn, tnnn, tnnnnnnnn)
Here is Ishaq hitting some sleek poses with glove candidates. (sorry Ishaq, these are too good)
Joseph went with the red ones. Equipped with this information Tian and Ishaq then made the purchase and headed to the bus station to drop Ishaq off, so he can visit his mom. On the way there Ishaq was going to put the gloves purchase into Splitwise (our personal purchase splitting app of choice), when he realised he could not find them. Odd… After some digging around the car, he remembered that he had put them on the roof of the car, while securing the bikes on the back. So they hurried back to the store and searched for the glove in the parking lot, but to no avail. Battling the demons of guilt they got another pair of gloves and headed to the bus station. But then on the highway Ishaq noticed a suspicious red item laying alone on the highway – the missing gloves! Of course it being a highway the car had already passed the gloves, so they did a u-turn and then another one, but then they passed the gloves again, so they did some more u-turning until the gloves were acquired. So now we have an extra pair of gloves and the moral of the story is to never give up on the things you lose. (This statement really did not age that well with more stuff going missing… that’s for another blog.)
Back to the main plot, the learning festival went very smoothly. Personally, I think it is the best one yet. Small groups of great, engaged kids with lots of joy and questions, it was a pleasure to spend time with them!
After the kids left we stayed in the library. Charles and Ruth were 3d printing and debugging the printing pens. I was drawing and cutting circles. Tian was eating and making 3d flowers. Joseph gave some well received back massages. Some people visited the nearby cafe and came back raving about the banana muffins and peach chai lattes (which might have taken the top spot in chai rankings or not i don’t know nothing). Sarah did some reading. Ruth started scheming how we can do almost 300 miles in 3 days in Northern Nevada (where there is barely any churches, and too many shrubs). Busy with various tasks, we ended up spending the whole day in the library.
Ruth biting the pen in a desparate (but ultimately successful) attempt to fix it.Charles approaching a point of desparation fixing the last pen.Tian being cute with a cute flower she made.circlessssssssssssRuth schemingthe back massage that rumour says hits your lungs
To top it off, our lovely host Janet took us to dinner at a mexican place not even a block away from their home. It was great! I got to try barbacoa and pink lemonade (that was really pink!), Ruth got ramen, which was interesting and did some shenanigans to make her sweet iced tea the right sweetness. Sarah got a huge burrito. I think my braincells at that point were running around without aim, so I got lots of laughs. It was awesome! Thanks Janet and Orvin!
Acapulco!Pink lemonade, not sweet iced tea and pepper in a funny bottle.food!Ruth transfering tea from one glass to anotherNo it’s not the same tea, yes both teas at this point were hers. Yes, she did later realise she could just pour it.
And with that ended our learning festival day. Off to sleep we went! And off to sleep I am going now too!
St. Louis, MO to Jefferson City, MO, 125.1 mi 3840 ft or 74.1 mi 2239 ft
The sun rose at 5:40am over St. Louis; me and Greta rose at 5 am sharp. We had a long day ahead of us. 130 miles ahead of us. No joke.
I did not get a picture of the sunset, because I was busy getting ready: losing a glove, finding my other pair of gloves, then finding the lost glove again and other stuff of that sort. But we rolled out at 6am sharp. It was surprisingly warm, but we were optimistic. The plan was for us to bike self supported for the first 50 or so miles, then meet up with the rest of the group, who would leave afterwards and shuttle ahead to reduce the milage. (Huge thanks to Nora and Alex for making this happen!)
The team with our hosts in the morning ->
So that’s what we did. We started off going through St. Louis, seeing more parts of the city we explored yesterday, when the sun went away and it started raining. Not heavily, but consistently. This was new. We were used to the afternoon thunderstorms, but now we finally got a simple rainy day. At around mile 27 we got on the Katy trail… where we would continue for the rest of the day. The Katy trail, which used to be part of the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad (also known as the Katy, this is where the name comes from) at 260 miles total distance, mostly by the Missouri river, is the longest developed rail-trail in the US. It is fine gravel, used by cyclists, runners and walkers, with occasional bathrooms and benches maintained. No water fountains, but we asked for some at a restaurant and also realised that we don’t really drink nearly as much in the cool rain. In the rain, the gravel got nice and mushy, which had the effect of reduced speed and muddy backs.
Mile 80 marker and funny looking plantsThe bustling restaurant which kindly filled the water bottles of two muddy cyclists.Greta and the dirt on her back.
Despite this gloomy atmosphere, we had a great time! We chatted, played some tunes on Greta’s legendary hanging speaker, including The Sound of Music soundtrack in its entirety, as well as playing the Picnick game – a great invention and amazing way to pass the time. (If someone already explained it in their blog or if you know what it is, feel free to skip ahead.) The way it works is one person comes up with a criteria to decide if a noun is YES or NO (eg. is alive?, had more than 8 letters?, etc.). Then the game alternates between them saying something they can bring and the other person asking if they can bring something else. The goal is for the other person to guess the criteria. I struggled on Greta’s criteria for more than 10 miles and did not get it. You can ask her about it. She got mine much faster, so I can tell you that the criteria was all words with and even number of syllables.
We also took in the scenery, saw some crazy blue birds and tackled a fallen tree. Mud was everywhere. (I later found sand in my washed bibs.)
blurry Missouri rivergreta tackling a fallen treemuddy shoes
Anyways, I think it was around mile 60 when we met up with the car for some lunch. We had packed a bunch of snacks, but its really nice to have actual food (dinner leftovers!). Time until lunch had flown very quickly, but afterwards it slowly started to slow down. Luckily the sun came out for a bit and Ishaq and Tian – our driver and passenger for the day – brought Greta some (lukewarm gas station) coffee.
lunchthe sun!greta, ishaq and the joy that coffee brings
We kept meeting up with the car until around mile 108, when Greta shuffled to our destination to take a call and I was left on the trail with my own thoughts. The sun had dissappeared again, my butt was hurting and my legs were done with this. The air was eerie and my podcast (about espionage) did not help (and there were way too many ads). But I persevered – changed my hand position on the handlebars too many times and worked on my leftover snacks.
s-patch-es and cinnamon toast crunchme and my snackslast i saw of the sun
Last miles went by slowly. Occasionally I thought I would be on this wet trail forever and contemplated making contact with the birds or bunnies. But that was not neccessary, since I did, in fact, make it to Jefferson City. Surreal. Crazy. Iconic.
Jefferson City rest stop on the Katy trailThe second to last climb – a spiralJefferson City
The sun set at 8:40pm over Jefferson City. I rolled in at around 8pm. Not that you could see the sun – for the most part, I could not be sure it was there. But I was sure that there was me, outside, on the Katy trail, scaring squirrels, frightening bunnies and thinking too many thoughts. Maybe I was the sun. My sun for that day was me. (read again: thinking too many thoughts)
Our rest for the night was Sarah’s place. And it was an amazing place for resting. I got hosed down, devoured dinner, got cuddles from Barbara (see below), showered and fell right asleep. I know some people stayed up to play some game, but I actually have only a very vague idea about how the rest of the team’s day had been. There is only so many hours in a day. And today, I spent them all biking.
Me and Barbara on the couchBarbara on the couch
(I don’t think a dog had ever cuddled up to me like Barbara did, missing her already.)